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Nadie que cocine lo hace a solas. Incluso en la mas absoluta soledad, una cocinera metida en la cocina se halla rodeada por generaciones de cocineras del pasado, y por la sabiduría de las escritoras especializadas en cocina.
Laurie Colwin
Mi madre me enseñó algunas de sus recetas, pero fue Mary Contwell quien me enseñó a cocinar. A comienzo de los setenta, cuando empecé por mi cuenta, Mary escribía una columna sobre cocina en Mademoiselle, y yo me enteraba de las maravillas de los macarrones al queso y de los postres de Navidad.
Al mismo tiempo me enteraba que tenía varias casas y dos hijas, de sus gozos y de sus desdichas, lo que, de alguna forma, estaba relacionado indirectamente con los buenos alimentos y el buen comer.
Aunque nunca llegamos a conocernos, Mary y yo estuvimos muy unidas a través de esos íntimos lazos místicos que, con el paso de los años, se van fortaleciendo entre escritora y lectora. Esto sucede cuando el corazón agradecido de la lectora descubre con asombro que la escritora la conoce incluso mejor que su propia familia o amistades.
Luego, en la década de los ochenta, llegué a ser muy amiga a través de la letra impresa, de Laurie Colwin, quien con una pluma y un tenedor captó los altibajos de la dicha doméstica. Laurie me enseñó que saborear las galletas de jengibre podía llevarme al éxtasis, y que la mantequilla sin sal, un aceite de oliva realmente bueno o los pollos de campo eran un lujo a nuestro alcance.
Nuestras vidas eran muy similares, teníamos más o menos la misma edad, cada una tenía un hijo, y ambas nos ganábamos la vida escribiendo. Pero, por encima de todo ambas éramos almas hogareñas que no necesitábamos deambular mas allá de nuestras cuatro paredes para encontrar aventura y satisfacción.
Los días de ambas giraban en torno a la escritura, recoger a los críos a la salida del colegio, a los asados al horno y a la fe compartida de que la cocina es un arte.
Aunque las novelas y narraciones cortas de Laurie me gustaban, yo adoraba sus ensayos sobre cocina. (Recopilados ahora en dos colecciones deliciosas: Home Cooking; A Writer in the Kitchen y More Home Cooking: A Writer Returns to the Kitchen) El día tornaba más pleno cuando tenía a Laurie para leer y una nueva receta para probar. Era como si una amiga íntima se hubiera presentado en casa para tomar una taza de café, charlar un rato y probar un gran trozo de tarta.
Otra cosa que Laurie y yo compartíamos era la pasión por los libros de cocina. Las habituales incursiones en esta clase de libros constituyen siempre un placer, y nunca me cansaré de recomendarlos.
Yo leo libros de cocina, del mismo modo que otras mujeres leen literatura de ficción: en la cama por la noche. o mientras vigilo el hervor de las papas en el fuego.
Como es lógico, nunca he cocinado platos de todos mis libros de cocina. No obstante, me encanta hojearlos y pegar en sus páginas para el menú de mañana, pequeñas notas amarillas en las que he garabateado «parece bueno».
Los libros de cocina no tratan tanto de una solución sobre qué hacer para cenar como de un mundo de abundancia y elecciones creativas. Con los libros de cocina, nuestras opciones siempre están abiertas: es posible que no seamos capaces de pilotear un Concord, pero podemos abrir un libro y preparar un gratinado de pollo con queso si nos apetece.
Hace varios años, una terrible mañana de octubre, bajé para preparar el desayuno y conseguir que Katie fuera del colegio. Mientras empaquetaba su almuerzo y la apremiaba para que se diera prisa, miré de reojo el periódico y me quedé pasmada al leer que Laurie había muerto de un ataque cardíaco mientras dormía. ¿Cómo podía haberse marchado la amiga que me instaba no sólo a conseguir lo máximo de cada comida, sino que además lo hacía diariamente? Cuando todos se marcharon, rompí a llorar y creí que nunca podría dejar de hacerlo. Me pasé aquella mañana haciendo toda una hornada de galletas de jengibre, mientras me sonaba la nariz, volvía a leer sus memorias, rezaba y lamentaba la pérdida de una mujer y una escritora tan extraordinaria que celebraba lo sagrado en lo cotidiano.
«Sé que los niños pequeños se apartan de la mesa, que la vida en familia nunca es fácil, y que la vida en sí misma no sólo llena en encanto, cariño y comodidades, sino también en tristezas y llantos. Pero, tanto si nos sentimos felices como afligidos, siempre nos alimentaremos», decía Laurie.
Es por eso que me encantan los libros de cocina, y especialmente celebro los suyos
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